

FoCal takes control of the camera and can change most settings, but there are a few final things worth checking before starting.

If you have neither, a piece of dark paper hung over the back of the camera will suffice. Some cameras have a built in switch to cover the eyepiece, while others may have an attachment on the strap that can cover the eyepiece.

The camera is usually used with a human head stopping light from entering the viewfinder, but this isn't the case when running with FoCal and stray light can upset the metering system and cause calibration problems. For the very best results, it's a good idea to cover the viewfinder of the camera. It doesn't have to be absolutely perfect - if you're too away from the middle then FoCal will warn you when you check the Target Setup explained below. Look through the viewfinder and approximately line the centre focus point with the centre circle of the target. If you usually use a battery grip, it should be removed for calibration as it can increase vibration and reduce the quality of the calibration results. The camera should be on a sturdy tripod, aimed at the target at the appropriate distance away. Outdoors initially sounds like a good idea, but any wind can disturb the setup and clouds can change the light level during the test and cause calibration problems, so we wouldn't recommend this. It's best to avoid fluorescent or cheap LED lighting as these can flicker and cause problems with calibration. If FoCal is warning you that the light level is too low, you can supplement the lighting on the target with a constant light source. The best setup is to have the target in a well lit room. To be able to do this, we need the AF system to work to the best of its ability, and for this we need plenty of light on the target.įoCal will check the lighting level before running a test and you can adjust if necessary, so pick a location to start with and you will check to make sure it's OK with FoCal before you calibrate this is covered below. The purpose of the calibration is to make sure that the AF system of your camera and lens is working together perfectly. You can use a USB extension cable but in our experience these can cause some problems with reliability and we wouldn't advise it unless you have no other choice. If you're using a laptop this won't usually be a problem, but if you have a desktop then consider this when choosing a calibration location. Your camera will also need to be close enough to your computer to be able to plug in the USB cable. The Target Distance Tool will help you choose the right distance, but here are some examples for common lens focal lengths. If the camera is too close to the target, the results of the calibration won't be as good for general shooting. The distance between the camera and the target is important for a good calibration. You'll need to attach the target to a flat, vertical wall and aim the camera at the target, so pick a height at which you can easily aim the tripod mounted camera.
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You should have the software installed and ready to go, but if you're not in that position head to the guides below to help you get set up. To get my 50L dialed in I just did a LOT of shooting wide open, at objects with good texture and contrast, and eventually had an idea of where the AF was hitting the most in front or behind targetand adjusted accordingly.This page will show you what you need to do to run your first calibration. I plan to redo the L testing, this time from a correct, large distance.īasically, FoCal can't get a consistent reading and therefore can't make an exact adjustment. I didn't even need to use a tripod, remote shutter release, mirror lockup etc. I spent a lot of time doing indoor testing printed targets, computer monitor with moire patterns, Then I discovered that I get better results by hanging a large printed target on a wall in my backyard, and shooting it from realistic distances on a sunny day. I get pretty consistent focusing and have yet to notice much of the focus shift problem others talk about. I wonder what throws it off? How did you end of adjusting the 50L? That's the 50L for ya Don't blame the program, blame the lens. Which chart did you use afterall? Gear List.

Interesting, I've heard great feedback from people on here which has me thinking of dropping coin on it but now you have me thinking otherwise. Anyone had better luck? Is there something I'm missing? F lickr.
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So I waited until the next day and set up in my back yard in daylight the recommended environment.Įnded up using a printed free focus chart and settled on -6, which seems to give me the most consistency over varying distances and apertures. Took some real world shots and was not happy.
